My second Challenge and a Shiel Bridge start that gives me a slightly more complicated journey than my first start in Oban. A little investment sees me with an Osprey Optic 48 Rucksack and a Tarp Tent Stratospire 1 shelter resulting in a total pack weight of 12.6kg including 0.5L of water and food for 5 days.

Thinking that the notes and photos from my 2016 Crossing would never see the light of day I decided that photos of my 2018 crossing would be taken on my phone and I actually stopped taking notes on the first Sunday. Phone photo quality deteriorated as the Challenge progressed with a delaminating lens coating. My thanks go to various Challengers whose blogs and e-mails served to re-kindle my memories and especially to Emma Warbrick for the use of her excellent images.

Day -2 – Getting to Glasgow

Arriving on time at Glasgow I was on Challenger alert but not one was to be seen. I booked the Glasgow Z Hotel near Queen St Station and only a ten minute walk from Buchanan St Bus Station. These hotels give you cost effective city centre accommodation in a windowless room with a bed/bedside table, a wall-mounted TV and a glass partition at the end of the bed, which screens a toilet and wet-room shower.

Day -1 – Glasgow to Shiel Bridge

The excitement of the Challenge was building and so I was up early and had to wait for Wetherspoons to open. It looked like I had a drink problem, pacing up and down and trying the doors – I was only there for breakfast, honest! I had no problem finding the correct stand at Buchanan St Bus Station as there was a crowd of Challengers already there. The driver informed us all that the bus was fully booked and if we didn’t have a ticket not to get on. The journey to Shiel Bridge is a long one and I was most pleased to see that the website had been correct about the new coaches being equipped with a toilet. Good conversation with Stuart Anderson, Alexander Gilmour and first timer Lorna Hazard. The bus stops at Fort William for a while which gave me time to eat and finish off the bottle of red; I’m certain Alan and Margaret Brown who were waiting to get on the bus must have also thought I’d got a drink problem.

The Kintail Lodge is not a cheap place to stay but very nice. The bar was full of Challengers and I soon found myself engrossed in conversation with Mervyn Redshaw, Alan Ross and Ulla Widqvist (Sweden). Ulla had the good fortune to have booked a bed in the hotel Bothy which was undergoing repairs, I say good fortune because she was given a key to a bedroom and told that there would be no additional charge.

• 

• 

Day 1 – Fri 11 May – Shiel Bridge to Alltbeithe SYHA

Road and minor road to Morvich then track/path to Bealach an Sgairne before descending to path alongside Allt Gleann Gniomhaidh and River Affric. 10.6 miles

About 4:00pm just as I jogged from the dorm to the main Hostel to have a shower it began to rain. I bumped into Bob outside the main door who was putting his pack on ready to walk a little further along the glen to camp. I politely informed him that I was off for a shower and some food in front of the fire – Bob really seemed pleased about this! Nice sociable evening with Alan, Margaret and Susan Pow in a Hostel I will certainly return to.

• 

• 

Day 2 – Sat 12 May – Alltbeithe SYHA to Cougie

Path to Cnoc Fada then cross River Affric at Athnamulloch and continue on path/track on south shore of Loch Affric. Path south along Allt Garbh steadily climbing to main track heading east to Loch nan Gillean, through woods to Cougie.11.6 miles

The day started earlier than expected with our Alaskan Challenger, Shaun Sexton (Golden Shorts) getting out of his bunk with his head-torch on and starting to pack his rucksack. I do believe he managed to wake everyone in the dorm. With the early morning call from Golden Shorts I was up and away for 8:30am to a fine morning and a cloudless sky.

After about 2 hours I caught up with Alan and Margaret Brown ending up walking all the way to Cougie with them. Walking with them was a pleasure but came with some difficulties as they stopped for 5 minutes every hour. On my first Challenge I had been taught to take 10 to 15 minutes every 2 hours removing boots and socks to air the feet. With only 5 minute stops, no sooner had I got my boots off, they were both up and ready to go again.

On the way past Loch nan Gillean, Margaret dropped down to the little green fishing hut where she found a rather distressed and dehydrated Sally Phillips. Margaret encouraged her to drink and rest, arranging to meet her at Cougie. It was good to see her again later that day looking much better.

Cougie is a special place that has welcomed Challengers for a long time. Whilst Alan and Margaret camped in the garden along with lots of other Challengers, I had secured a double bed along with dinner and breakfast. Food and drink was available all afternoon and late into the evening, all served up by our wonderful host Melanie.

The evening was not without its entertainment. Earlier in the day whilst on the climb up to Cougie we had encountered a small section of bog which was easily crossed to a path with good underfoot conditions. Late comers at Cougie told of extensive bog and getting lost which became rocket fuel for the dry humour of Golden Shorts accompanied by Ulla who demonstrated yoga stretches on the living room floor. Laugh? I nearly cried.

• 

• 

Day 3 – Sun 13 May – Cougie to Torgyle Bridge

Path south east through woods crossing open country to pick up Allt na Muic and path south through woods to minor road. East along road to Torgyle Bridge. Actual route – minor road north east past Plodda Falls to Hilton Lodge. Track south to A887 and road to Torgyle Bridge. 12.7 miles

The day started with fine drizzle and then turned to light rain. I left with Alan and Margaret at about 8:00am and decided not to take my planned route due to a combination of the weather and reports about the route being very boggy. After 2 hours the rain stopped and the sun came out, remaining warm and dry all day.

Getting to know Alan and Margaret was a pleasure and in one conversation I told Margaret that she reminded me of my Gran. This wasn’t an insult, even though my Gran would have been 118. It was that Gran had been highly active in Scouting and that I could see her qualities in Margaret. Well, guess who turned out to be involved in Scouting!

I said farewell to Alan and Margaret at Torgyle Bridge as they were continuing on to Fort Augustus. Turned left after the bridge and dropped down towards the river where after a lot of walking up and down I settled on a decent flat spot. Not long after Kate Elliott and Sarah Turner arrived and found a spot a little closer to the bridge. My evening meal was taken on the river bank in the evening sun.

Day 4 – Mon 14 May – Torgyle Bridge to Blackburn Bothy

Forest tracks and Old Military Road through Inchnacardoch Forest to Fort Augustus. Minor roads to start of Corrieyairack Pass and up to Blackburn Bothy. 13.7 miles

Up early to yet another nice day, feeling really good and eating into the Old Military Road until disaster nearly struck. Upon crossing a narrow stream I quickly skipped across some small rocks, one of which moved and I rolled my ankle. Fortunately there was no damage done, but note to self: do not dance about on uneven ground, especially when you are on your own in the hills.

Descended into Fort Augustus and after picking up a few supplies headed for the pub at the locks – The Bothy. Haddock and chips washed down with Tennent’s lager and fine hospitality. With a full belly and alcohol in the blood stream it suddenly dawned on me that I had to climb up to Blackburn Bothy.

Started up The Corrieyairack Pass and was suddenly stopped in my tracks by a handful of Highland Cows. These are not my favourite beast, but the large one with ‘man bits’ had made eye contact. With no alternative route I arose to my full 5’ 6” height and frantically waved my walking poles with the desired result, the beast fled behind a wall to the left that ran parallel to the track. I continued until the beast reappeared 25m further down the track via a hole in the wall, I could smell something rather unpleasant, surely that couldn’t be me. Fortunately he took one look and trotted off to the ladies in the field.

Approximately 2 miles from the Bothy I caught up with Sally Phillips and we walked and talked until just before the Bothy when we were caught by Neil Fox and the three of us continued together arriving at the Bothy around 4:30pm. Sally and I set up our tents on a fine piece of turf. Sally enquired of the buzzing noise coming from my tent and she was somewhat gobsmacked to find I had a small electric pump to inflate my Thermarest. I now seem to have yet another nickname ‘Kev the Pump’.

We spent the evening sat around the Bothy fire with another resident Alan, before Sally and I ventured outside into the cold to find our tents and yet another good night of sleep.

• 

• 

Day 5 – Tue 15 May – Blackburn Bothy to Garva Bridge

Corrieyairack Pass to the top then a steep uneven descent before a decent track to Melgarve Bothy and beyond to Garva Bridge. 11.7 miles

Left the Bothy at just after 9:00am on another beautiful day. At the top of the pass the wind picked up and looking back down the pass it appeared the weather was closing in but we managed to stay ahead and made our way down an unpleasant descent and onto the track to Melgarve Bothy. There were quite a few Challengers inside, the team from Gossamer Gear (Steven, Ian and Grace) and a chap in a large hat who I thought I recognised but could not be sure due to the poor light.

On leaving the Bothy and stepping into daylight I instantly recognised the ‘chap under the hat’ as Peter Stickler, a gentleman who I had walked with on day one of my first Challenge. Peter joined Sally and myself on the walk down to Garva Bridge. We arrived to find Steve in his campervan and a sign outside advertising free tea and coffee to Challengers, a most welcome sight.

I said my farewells to Peter and Sally who were continuing. As the wind was picking up and the temperature tumbling I quickly pitched my shelter and made a soup before starting on my evening meal. Unbeknown to me, Vicky and Toby had arrived in their campervan and as I was waiting for the magic of rehydration to take place, a plate full of goodies was passed through the door. Toby then proceeded to visit every tent.

Day 6 – Wed 16 May – Garva Bridge to Newtonmore

Minor road past Sherrabeg to Spey Dam. Track south east to Wolftrax café. Wolftrax green route to A86/A889 junction to Pottery Café then minor road east to cycle route into Newtonmore. 15.8 miles

Up and away early down the road towards Spey Dam as I had arranged to meet Emma at the Wolftrax café for breakfast and didn’t want to be late. The opening time of 10:00am came as a bit of a surprise so I ended up sleeping on the picnic tables in the morning sun. After eating breakfast and hanging around for a while I set off down the Wolftrax green route which nicely avoids a section of road walking. Just before the car park at the end of the route I got a ‘where are you’ text message from Emma. Retracing my steps of over a mile was not on the agenda so I arranged for a second breakfast stop at the Pottery Café where I would wait for Emma. Whilst sat in the shade talking to Harry James, Emma arrived and the second breakfast of Coke and Cake commenced.

Emma and I set off together for the walk to Newtonmore, stopping for refreshment at Ian’s campervan and then for ice cream at the Ralia Café. Emma was booked into Newtonmore Hostel and me across the road in the Glen Hotel, so we arranged to meet up later for food and drink in the hotel bar.

After checking in the first thing on the agenda was a shower and then a tick check, a most difficult procedure if carried out solo. Picture this – desk chair from room placed next to sink, one foot on chair, one foot in sink and butt cheeks pointed at the over-sink bathroom mirror!

Clean and confidently tick free I entered a full bar area and started to investigate the beer options. Having purchased my selection I turned around to see the familiar face of Graeme Dunsire – lots of meeting and greeting ensued. As Emma joined me for food, Louise Evans arrived, so much meeting and greeting. My phone pinged with a text from Challenge Control ‘we were expecting a phone call from you’. Bloody hell! I rang and apologised several times, it would appear I was one of several that evening. Ringing in to Challenge Control is important and should be done at the pre-arranged points on the Route Plan, I really should have done it straight after check in.

Day 7 – Thur 17 May – Newtonmore to Ruigh-aiteachain Bothy

Follow cycle route to Kingussie then minor road to Ruthven Barracks. Path and tracks to Drumguish, Baileguish and on to the bridge past Stronetoper. Cross bridge and follow path south along River Feshie to Bothy. 13.6 miles

After a large breakfast I wandered across to the Hostel to find Peter Stickler in the garden posing with a fine pair of antlers he had found. He was planning to carry them to the coast until Sally managed to persuade him to leave them with Ali for her to deliver to Montrose. Lunch was purchased from the local shop on our way out of the village and a group, Peter, Colin, Merv, Emma and I, set off on what was becoming a very hot day. Welcome stops were made at Ruthven Barracks, the bridge past Baileguish and the Feshie Bridge. With the weather being absolutely scorching the second stop turned into a stream paddle in what felt like iced water. There was a large group of Challengers taking in the sun at the Feshie Bridge where I found Graeme once again plastering on the sun screen.

• 

• 

The walk from the bridge to the Bothy seems a long one but walked at a pace with Graeme and we were soon there. I was at the Bothy 12 months ago when it was a fenced off building site. The difference now is unbelievable. The estate must have put a large amount of money into the renovation and I’m most impressed with the quality of the workmanship.

• 

• 

Day 8 – Fri 18 May – Ruigh-aiteachain Bothy to Ruin near Geldie Ford

Track/path along east bank of River Feshie to bridge crossing River Eidart at waterfall. North bank of the Geldie Burn to ruin near Geldie ford. 12.3 miles

Walked as a group with Emma, Peter, Colin, Merv and on and off with Laura Liddell. The walk along Glen Feshie on a beautiful day does not disappoint. We managed to get the nav correct at the badly eroded section, keeping high and avoiding the near vertical short ascent from the river. Next came the scaffold bridge at the waterfall, over the watershed and down to the north bank of the Geldie Burn. Laura had walked with us in the early part of the day but had found the going a bit quick with her injury so she’d asked us to push on without her. She certainly wasn’t far off the pace as every time we had a break she had joined us within minutes.

• 

• 

My plan was to camp close to the ‘Dangerous Building’ not far away from the Geldie Ford but there weren’t many decent spots so we crossed the track and pitched a little closer to the ford. The camp started with six of us but soon developed into a ‘Challenger Gathering’ with the arrival of Stan Appleton, Scott Rae, Sue Oxley, Tim Jayes, Trevor Morgan, David Pickles, Lindsay Jones and Ellie Barker. Many brews and much laughter before the camp descended into the silence that only a day on the trail can induce.

Day 9 – Sat 19 May – Ruin near Geldie Ford to Braemar

Track to Geldie Burn ford, White Bridge and Linn of Dee. Minor road to Mar Lodge and Victoria Bridge. Road and track to Tomintoul viewpoint and descend into Braemar. 11.5 miles

Walking along the Feshie and on to Braemar comes with the bonus of not having to cross the Geldie Burn. In poor weather the Geldie can rise quickly and become impassable, although with the fine weather during the first week of the Challenge the burn looked shin deep at the most. Heading along the track past White Bridge thoughts of the toilets at the Linn of Dee came to mind. Having been disappointed with toilet closures in the past I tried not to get too excited but the most simple of facilities start to mean a lot. Due to the heat of the day Tim, Trevor, myself and Emma all agreed that a break in the shade was in order. The toilets were once again closed but Portaloo were a plenty – Happy Days! The walk along the minor road to Mar Lodge seems to go on forever but we were soon laying down our packs and partaking of tea and biscuits in the Gun Room along with numerous other Challengers.

The plan was to avoid the long road walk to Braemar and instead go via the Tomintoul viewpoint. Emma thought she could remember the way so being blokes and naturally lazy we all fell into line and followed. With only one slight navigational adjustment we arrived at the viewpoint and all agreed it was worth the climb before a rather steep descent on tired and painful knees.

On the middle Saturday of the Challenge Braemar becomes ‘Challenge City’. I lost count of how many people I said hello to on my way to The Bothy for tea and tuna butties. Chairs kept on being added to our outside table until we ran out of space. An invite from Graeme to dinner at Gordon’s Restaurant was eagerly accepted and I headed off to the Youth Hostel to check in.

The shower room at the Hostel was both busy and loud with Norman Reeves, Keith Leonard and John Woolston all washing away the grime. John and I shared a bit of banter about being careful getting out of the shower, as his fall at the same Hostel two years earlier had nearly cost him his crossing. In complete contrast to the shower room, my dorm was completely silent, but soon started to fill with both lads and lasses. The Hostel Warden had overlooked telling me that a booking issue had resulted in my dorm becoming mixed. It’s a good job the ladies didn’t arrive 10 minutes earlier when I was trying to find my pants.

Day 10 – Sun 20 May – Braemar to Gelder Shiel Bothy

Path up through the wood to Lions Face followed by a dangerous road walk to Invercauld Bridge. Tracks through Ballochbuie Forest to Connachat Cottage before taking path/tracks to higher ground and Gelder Shiel Bothy. 9.7 miles

Breakfast at Gordon’s accompanied by plenty of Challengers including Alan and Margaret Brown. Suddenly Margaret jumped up and set off like Usain Bolt as she’d spotted Sally walking past the window – another Challenger friendship well and truly cemented. Set off for Gelder Shiel via Lions Face and on this occasion got my nav spot on. The road walk to Invercauld Bridge is never pleasant, constantly watching for traffic and hopping on and off the uneven verge. At the bridge I rewarded myself with a lay down in the shade and attacked a rather large orange I’d purchased back in Braemar.

At Connachat Cottage I took the path uphill and instantly felt the wind increase in strength which buffeted me all the way to the Shelter, where I took some welcome respite. Lindy Griffiths caught me up at the Shelter and we walked together for a while until our routes diverged. Arrived at Gelder Shiel to find a nice flat sheltered area in the corner of the lodge. I’d just set up when Colin Reid arrived and we agreed that he should pitch close to get as much shelter from the wind as he could. Graeme and Marion then arrived and started to pitch in an exposed spot. I enquired of their madness, to be informed by Graeme that within the hour the wind would drop. Of course the wind dropped, what do I know?! Things got even better and for a short while I was able to sit in the evening sunshine before an early night.

Day 11 – Mon 21 May – Gelder Shiel Bothy to Shielin of Mark

Track to Spittal of Glenmuick. Footpath along Allt Darrarie taking left stream fork then right stream fork to pass anti-clockwise around land mass passing beneath Round Hill of Mark to Bothy. 8.6 miles. Actual route: continued on over Muckle Cairn and down to the Stables of Lee to camp near the Falls of Unich on the bank of the Lee. 13.3 miles

Away early whilst some were still sleeping. Re-traced my steps back down the track as I had been warned of wet conditions on the path. Undulating track in the shadow of Lochnagar soon brought another Challenger into view and I slowly closed in on Colin who had left Gelder Shiel as I was starting to pack. We took a well-earned break at the Spittal of Glenmuick before starting the climb along side Allt Darrarie. We’d not gone far when we saw a young chap in the water acting a little odd. He told us he was doing a university project but Colin was pretty certain he was panning for gold. Navigation today was easy as Colin had been this way before. I did get a little concerned when he set off through the peat hags but his nav was spot on, arriving at the brow of the hill directly behind the Bothy.

The plan was to camp outside the bothy and have a restful afternoon starting with a brew and lunch. Before we had thoughts of pitching the tents Graeme and Marion arrived and discussed the possibility of us all continuing on over Muckle Cairn to a spot just below the Falls of Unich. As it was still early in the afternoon this seemed a good option, with the added advantage of a short walk into Tarfside for breakfast the following day.

The pitch on the bank of the Lee was level and protected from the full force of a strong gusting wind by Bruntwood Craig. The temperature dropped and I soon found myself in my pit not at all eager to venture out. A pleasant evening was spent listening to Ascent by Chris Bonington. Some of his accounts were around the time that I was an active climber and alpinist, the memories of fantastic times flooding back.

• 

• 

Day 12 – Tue 22 May – Shielin of Mark to Tarfside

Up and over Muckle Cairn and descend to Stables of Lee and along track past Loch Lee to Kirkton. A short section of road then track to Westbank and path to Tarfside. 11.3 miles. Actual route: walked from near the Falls of Unich then track past Loch Lee as above.  6.6 miles

With only a short walk into Tarfside our group arrived early; so good to see Anne and Alvar and the team of volunteers who made us most welcome with brews and bacon/egg butties. Because we were early I was able to get a room for the night and once again selected St Andrews. Numerous Challengers arrived throughout the day and St Drostan’s was constantly busy.

An evening meal can be booked and taken around the kitchen table, it proves popular and there are normally several sittings. Things quieten down a little later in the evening as Challengers head for the camping area on the local playing fields or to the Mason’s Arms for more socialising. I’ve not managed to get to the Mason’s on two visits to Tarfside, something I need to do next time. Having a room at St Drostan’s means that when you’re tired you can just wander off to a comfortable bed and a beer/food induced slumber.

Day 13 – Wed 23 May – Tarfside to North Water Bridge

The Party Route: Road walk to river crossing S of Fernybank before riverside track and path to bridge not on the map at NO580740. ‘Blue Door’ route to Edzell before more road walking to NWB. 16.9 miles

Just a brew for me at Tarfside as I had arranged to have breakfast at The Retreat with Louise and Emma. We couldn’t resist a photo at the road sign which requested you to ‘Drive Safely’ as a few weeks earlier I had left the road; and after visiting a ditch and hawthorn hedge I gently came to a stop in a field. Luckily only my pride was hurt and I walked away unscathed.

• 

• 

Louise must have been able to smell the food at The Retreat as she set a quick pace. As it turned out getting there early had been a good decision as they soon ran out of a number of breakfast items. We were lucky and had full breakfasts plus free drinks due to a delay in the kitchen. Picking up our packs at the same time as Scott Rae the four of us set off on ‘The Party Route’ to Edzell.

On my first Challenge I had managed to get Scott to pass a pub in favour of a café. At the pub in Edzell, Scott was not going to pass up the opportunity of a beer and we left him joining a large number of Challengers whilst we headed for the Tuck Inn. Fed and watered and following a re-stock at the local shop we set off on our way to North Water Bridge. Keeping off the busy main road for as long as possible is the key but a lengthy stretch of road has to be endured.

The caravan park at NWB was busy and the close proximity of tents reminds you of a music festival. Ian Shiel was there in his motorhome and our visit to say hello was rewarded with comfortable chairs and chilled white wine. Not too late in the pit for me although some seemed set on a late one.

• 

• 

Day 14 – Thur 24 May – North Water Bridge to Kinnaber Links

Minor road walking via the Mains of Gallery before cunning paths via Craigo, Logie, through the woods north of Hillside and minor road past Hospital. The coast at Kinnaber Links is reached via Charleton Fruit Farm. 8.1 miles

Emma, Louise and I set off together for the coast on yet another fine day. Whilst Emma and I were heading to Kinnaber Links via the fruit farm, Louise was going directly to Montrose so it was time for the final group photo.

I had convinced Emma that I had a cunning plan that would minimise the amount of road walking. A positive response: ‘Fine, we’ll do that but you’re navigating’ – no pressure! The route turned out to be pleasant and so were the refreshments at the fruit farm. Our approach to the coast took us down a path to a series of dunes and suddenly the sea.

• 

• 

My second Challenge completed and accompanied to the coast by my very good friend Emma Warbrick. As another good friend of mine is always saying: ‘Life doesn’t get much better than this’ and it doesn’t. Once again I found myself crying on an east of Scotland beach, not a big unmanly sob but eyes that constantly filled with water on a huge wave of emotion.