Day -1 Getting to the start on my very first TGOC

My wife got up early to drive me to Crewe railway station in plenty of time for a bacon sandwich and a coffee before my 7:32 train. At Crewe station I met my first Challenger, Peter Moss who was heading for a Torridon start via Inverness. Upon arrival at Glasgow I found a quiet spot to consult my street map of how to get to Queen Street, where I was due to catch the 12:19 train to Oban. Suddenly a loud voice from behind me said ‘You’ll be wanting Queen Street Station if you’re a Challenger, follow me and I’ll buy you a coffee on the way’. So this was my introduction to Graham Taylor and the camaraderie of The Great Outdoors Challenge.

The platform at Queen Street was absolutely buzzing with Challengers, some first timers and many meeting and greeting friends from previous crossings. On board the train I sat opposite another first timer Scott Rae, who set about his carrier bag full of Tennants lager at a pace I couldn’t have matched in my early twenties. Good conversation made the time fly and we were soon disembarking at Oban. Just ahead of me I thought I recognised a lady who I’d seen for all of 10 minutes in the Knoydart in 2014. I was correct as she also recognised me – hello again Emma Warbrick.

Day 1 – Friday 13 May – Oban to Glennoe

Mainly single track road/verge walking along the ‘on road cycle route’ to Taynuilt. Crossing the bridge over the River Awe and track along Loch Etive to Glennoe. 17 miles

Walked all day with Peter Stickler / Scott Rae and didn’t have a proper sit down break until we reached the delightful Robins Nest Café in Taynuilt at about 1:00pm. Getting Scott to the cafe took some real encouragement as he had to walk past the Hotel bar. Refreshed with suitable quantities of food and drink we headed off over the river and past the smokery to our overnight pitch in Glennoe. The three of us pitched about a quarter mile up the Glen on the right hand side and sat in the early evening sun.

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Day 2 – Saturday 14 May – Glennoe to Glen Kinglass

Along the side of Loch Etive until turning into and along Glen Kinglass to the planned pitch near bridge at Innseag na h-luraiche. 11.5 miles. Actually continued past Loch Dochard to just past the bridge along side Allt Suil na Curra 15.1 miles.

Awoken at 3:30am by the cold and had to reach for an extra layer. Breakfast was also a cool affair as the rays of the morning sun did not quite reach my tent. Said my farewells to Peter and Scott who were heading for the ridge whilst I was heading along the loch side to Glen Kinglass. Walking solo on a fantastic sunny day I passed the Dutch ladies at about 11:30am as they stopped for a break with their feet in the stream. An hour later the heat of the day was getting to me so I found a shady spot for a brew. Just as I was packing away Emma Warbrick and her friend Louise Evans came walking up the track and kindly asked if I would like to join them. Talk of a good camping spot encouraged me to pass by my intended overnight spot and join the ladies on the edge of a small wood just past Loch Dochard. Great company as we sat and chatted in the evening sun. I called it a night at 9:00pm with the pleasant thought of a much shorter walk to Gorton Bothy the following day.

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Day 3 – Sunday 15 May – Glen Kinglass to Gorton Bothy

From the camp at NN234416 a day shortened by 3.6 miles to 10.7 miles. Track to Forest Lodge and along the N shore of Loch Tulla then track N side of Water of Tulla and Gorton Bothy.

Awake at 6:00am and another cold start but the sun was already in the sky. I got the sleeping bag aired whilst I had breakfast and steadily packed in what was becoming a beautiful day. Just as we were about to leave we were joined by Ray Disson and Val Hadden, so all 5 of us walked together until the track crossed the West Highland Way. At this point we said farewell to Louise and Ray as their routes both headed south on the WHW towards The Bridge of Orchy and we also lost Val for a short time as she had decided to detour for food and drink. It was such a lovely day that I started to burn on my right arm and not having any sun lotion (why would I need that in Scotland) I hastily removed my Buff to turn into a temporary sleeve. Arrived at Gorton Bothy to find The Dutch Ladies – Marianne Grootveld and Karin Dehl already there along with a first timer Chris Reid. Val arrived a little later and we all settled in for our food, followed by good conversation around the fire. Chris and I turned in last as we were sleeping in the main room with the fire. A good nights sleep until, whilst going outside for a pee, Chris managed to knock over a wooden bench which hit the floor a few feet from my head – thought I’d been shot!

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Day 4 – Monday 16 May – Gorton Bothy to Bridge of Gaur

Gorton Bothy to short tunnel crossing of railway line, followed by an area of peat hags and onto good tracks through Rannoch Forest to Bridge of Gaur 11.4 miles.

Yet another nice day. Emma and I were last to leave the bothy following a good brush and tidy up. The day had started cooler than the previous day but got warmer as the day went on. As it was quite dry I agreed with Emma to take my planned route from the bothy following the pylons and into Rannoch Forest. Although the route through the peat hags was a little tricky in places it was remarkably dry. My alternative had it been very wet was to skip along the railway line. Good job I didn’t as there was a goods train on the line at the time I would have been. In preparation I had looked at the passenger train timetable but never considered freight. Arrived at the Bridge of Gaur B&B at around 3:30pm to a welcome of tea and biscuits. Val had already arrived as well as The Dutch Ladies who were camping in the back garden. Alistair Pooler arrived much later looking very tired after a few big days. Everyone sat down for an evening meal together and we were also joined by some friends of Val who had come to meet her. The hospitality received from Heather and Eddie at the Bridge of Gaur B&B was first rate.

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Day 5 – Tuesday 17 May – Bridge of Gaur to Loch Rannoch

Rather than taking the road to Loch Rannoch the planned route turns south on a track just after crossing Allt Fheadain towards Meall Duibh . Path and Tracks lead to and through Rannoch Forrest and onto the road just before Carrie, then road to Loch Rannoch. 15.7 miles. Actually walked the road / verge all the way. 12.3 miles.

So I carried on the road / verge until reaching Kilvrecht Campsite where we took a break on the wide grass verge. Emma spotted a walker pop out of the forest a little way down the road and soon realised that it was Louise. Now there were three of us on the road to Loch Rannoch. Louise was trying to get to the Post Office to send some maps home but unfortunately it had just closed, so I offered to post them the following morning as I would be passing. A golden rule on the Challenge is to never pass a café without calling in, so in we went for well deserved food and drink. I once again went for the tuna butties for which I received loads of flack. It would appear that it is inconceivable that anybody would turn down cake when available. I said my farewells to Louise and Emma who were heading for a B&B 3 miles east.

On my way to the hotel I caught up with Ray who was limping and looked absolutely knackered. The hotel was fairly busy and at reception I found The Dutch Ladies upgrading to a suite so that Val could get a cost effective bed for the night – more Challenger friendship. A good evening in the hotel bar with fellow Challengers and the surprise arrival of Emma and Louise who had taken up the offer of a lift from the B&B owner. There were some new faces around the table: Janet Chubb, Jenny Sampson and a Canadian couple Dov and Karen. Unfortunately the Canadians had withdrawn, not surprisingly as they were trying to carry 25kg each.

Day 6 – Wednesday 18 May – Loch Rannoch to Loch Tummel

Road to Crossmount and path to McGregors Cave then cross country to aquaduct bridge and forest track to Tummel Bridge. Path and tracks though Bohally Wood before descending to B8019 and road walk to campsite just before Queens View. 15.2 miles.

The forecast was for showers but the start was dry and bright. Posted the package for Louise and bumped into Alistair Pooler who I tagged along with for a few km. We soon caught up with a slow moving Janet Chubb who was unsure of navigating her route. As the majority of our day was the same I offered to walk with Janet into Bohally Wood, which started a slow but enjoyable day. At McGregors Cave we met a small group of walkers with ‘a local guide’, well that’s what he called himself. He informed us that our route would need a long detour as he was not aware of any bridges on our planned route. Having extensively researched this section I thanked him for his advice and promptly carried on. My cross country nav was surprisingly spot on, arriving at the deer fence gate that gave access to the bridge – you remember the one that didn’t exist! A few light showers before a lunch stop and having a signal a quick call to my friend David Preston (www.mywalkingworld.com).

Day 7 – Thursday 19 May – Loch Tummel to Marble Lodge+

B8019 and single track to Glen Fincastle then track and path to Blair Atholl. Glen Tilt via the Old Bridge of Tilt then track to camp just past Marble Lodge NN906720. 12.1 miles.

I had been considering doing a few more miles but due to my right knee starting to play up I decided to stop and rest. 97 miles completed 87 remaining.

Day 8 – Friday 20 May – Marble Lodge+ to Bynack Lodge

Track along the side of the River Tilt and then path along side Allt Garbh Buidhe and Allt an t-Seilich to Bynack Lodge (ruin). 11.4 miles.

Up and away early on a breezy overcast day for a second day of solo walking. Just past the Falls of Tarf I met a group of Challengers crossing my path – Keith Leonard on his 29th crossing, Ngumo Karugh and Norman Reeves. A little further on and making his way off the hill was Graham Glendhill who had become unwell and was heading to Braemar (big walk) seeking medication. Arrived at Bynack Lodge looking to pitch in the lee of the ruin, but a quick glance at the gable wall screamed unstable, so ended up a little exposed to the wind. I had given consideration to walking a little further and crossing the Geldie Burn whilst the water level was low but decided to stick to my plan and rest the knee as much as possible. Just as I was starting to think that I would be on my own for the night The Dutch Ladies, Karin and Marianne arrived followed by Ray Disson. I was especially pleased to see Ray as I thought he’d quit with badly blistered feet. Two further Dutch Challengers, Sybrew and Ronald also arrived. It was a blowy old night with rain as I laid in my pit thinking that I should have crossed the Geldie.

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Day 9 – Saturday 21 May – Bynack Lodge to Braemar

Track to Geldie Burn crossing, then track to White Bridge and Linn of Dee. Road to Mar Lodge for tea & biscuits, then Victoria Bridge and road walk to Braemar. 12.4 miles.

The Dutch Ladies were up and away early and I watched them cross the burn behind the ruin. 30 minutes later the water level had risen and I was unable to make a dry crossing, so headed for the track to the Geldie with the fast flowing water running at knee height – I do only have little legs! Straight forward track walk to the Linn of Dee and then a stretch of road to Mar Lodge where complimentary tea and biscuits are made available to Challengers. Introduced myself to Bob Cartwright from Backpacking Light whose voice I recognised from his Podcasts. The road walk into Braemar seemed to go on and on but the thought of food, drink and a shower kept me going.

Before the evening meal I checked into the Youth Hostel and opted for a top bunk and took a very much needed shower and did some washing. The shower room got very busy and for one unfortunate Challenger, John Woolston, his shower ended badly. On stepping out of the shower he had slipped and crashed to the floor. Being a big chap (read big not fat) John had hit the floor hard and damaged his back. Judging by the look on his face he was in a lot of pain. Another occupant of our dorm and the bunk beneath me was Andrew Walker. He must have also thought himself unfortunate when I climbed down for my third pee of the night!

Day 10 – Sunday 22 May – Braemar to Crathie

Pleasant woodland footpath to Lions Face and a short decent to the A93 and a dangerous road walk to Invercauld Bridge. Then woodland tracks to Balmoral Castle, Easter Balmoral and Crathie. 10.4 miles.

Sunny start to the day and better news for John Woolston. After strapping himself into his rucksack he announced that he felt a little more comfortable and was going to carry on. John left clutching numerous pain killers donated by his fellow Challengers. I left the Hostel with Val and had coffee, breakfast and lunch with her in The Old Bakery before setting off together on the walk up to Lions Face. We definitely got the nav wrong and spent an age in the woods. Experience would advise – keep left. At Connachat Cottage it was time to say farewell to Val who was heading up to Gelder Shiel. I found Val wonderful company and her outlook on life inspirational. She had stated at one point that ‘she liked walking with me because I walked at her pace’; my breathless reply was ‘only if you don’t go any faster Val’. My route took me to Balmoral Castle, one of my must see places on my route. Balmoral didn’t disappoint and I was astonished at how close I got. I arrived at The Copper Beech B&B to a warm welcome of tea and shortbread and a quiet but very pleasant evening.

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Day 11 – Monday 23 May – Crathie to Ballater

Not a long day but a lot of road walking, although a path around Greag Ghiubhais makes a delightful break. The river Dee is crossed at the Polhollick Bridge and a riverside path taken into Ballater. 9.3 miles.

What a start to the day – a bright morning and a massive breakfast served up by Janet and Mark who were excellent hosts. Road walking is hard and I took several breaks to air my hot feet. On one of these breaks I found I had a signal and decided to give my friend Richard Jones a call. The conversation was mainly one way with me trying to get 10 days of backpacking into a few minutes. Suddenly my voice broke as I realised that barring an accident I was going to complete my crossing – emotional stuff this walking. The path around Greag Ghiubhais was well worth the detour, much better than the road. Once back on tarmac I spoke to a young female cyclist who managed to convince me that a crossing of Polhollick Bridge which had been damaged by floods was still possible. The bridge was a little buckled but I crossed without incident. On arrival in Ballater I once again took on board the ‘never pass an open café’ rule and launched into another plate of tuna butties washed down with lots of tea. My accommodation for the night was the Deeside Inn which turned out to be rather nice. I had originally planned to camp but was unsure if the campsite was going to be useable having seen on TV the damage the floods had caused to Ballater. 141 miles completed 43 remaining.

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Day 12 – Tuesday 24 May – Ballater to Shiel of Glentanar

Road to Bridge of Muick and minor road to Balintober. Track and path to Shiel of Glentanar (ruin) 6.9 miles. Actually continued past planned camp and over the summit of Mount Keen, descending the Ladder Burn track to Queens Well. 12.3 miles.

Only a short day planned due to the climb up to Shiel of Glentanar before the ascent of Mount Keen the following day. On the early part of the climb I caught up with Cathy Craine who was finding things a little tough, so I offered to walk with her as far as the ruin, before she headed off over the shoulder and down to Queens Well. It was a bright warm day and as we arrived at my planned camp I made the decision to continue and do Mount Keen in the good weather whilst Cathy continued her planned route over the shoulder. On the descent I believed that Cathy must be ahead so I continued down the Ladder Burn to Queens Well. I got it wrong as Cathy turned up 30 mins later. A very nice camp with a lovely and interesting lady. Turned in relatively early and slept like a log.

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Day 13 – Wednesday 25 May – Shiel of Glentanar to Tarfside

Over the summit of Mount Keen, descending the Ladder Burn track to Queens Well and on to Tarfside. 10.7 miles. Actually did the route down to Queens Well the previous day. Short day of track and path to Tarfside. 5.3 miles.

Now only a short day into Tarfside and the legendary hospitality of the volunteers at St Drostans. No point pushing on past Tarfside as being a first timer I planned to take the full 15 days permitted for my crossing and have accommodation booked for the Friday evening. Not surprisingly I was one of the first to arrive at St Drostans and was welcomed with tea and a bacon buttie. Cathy took a short break before we said our farewells as she was pushing on to North Water Bridge. I took the opportunity to grab a room (on a first come basis) and settled into a restful day of eating and drinking. Then the characters started to arrive – Rob Chaplin complete with his wetsuit, Rob was swimming 800m in every swimmable stretch of water on his crossing. Peter Atkinson and Nick Ure who had obviously just landed from another planet, what a laugh they were, their humour equalling that of The Doctors, Chris Day and Rob Primhak. We were also joined by John and Sue Tattersall plus Gordon and Jenny Selley. A fantastic evening around the St Drostans kitchen table with food drink and plenty of banter topped off with a comfy bed and a good sleep.

Day 14 – Thursday 26 May – Tarfside to North Water Bridge

The Party Route:- Road walk to river crossing S of Fernybank before riverside track and path to bridge not on the map at NO580740. ‘Blue Door’ route to Edzell before more roadwalking to NWB. 16.9 miles.

Set off solo ahead of the pack passing those still pitched on the Tarfside playing field. Made good time via the ‘Blue Door’ route. At the Rocks of Solitude I met the wives of The Doctors who were meeting for a picnic. Upon reaching Edzell headed straight for the Tuck Inn and a large portion of haddock chips and peas – no sooner had I finished I was surrounded by the gang of Challengers from St Drostans. Before leaving Edzell I shopped for food and drink with John and Sue, with the plan of a social evening at NWB. A good evening with the gang from the previous night plus Mark Storey, Sheila Farley (on her 20th crossing), Richard Flint and a very quiet American whose name I didn’t get. Turned in when the temperature dropped and for once in my life turned down the opportunity of a shower.

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Day 15 – Friday 27 May – North Water Bridge to St Cyrus

Road and verge walking via Pert, Gallery, Broomley, Morphie and Hill of Morphie. Cliff path down to the sea. 8.5 miles.

Another dry day for my walk to the coast. Packed away early but John was about and could not believe his eyes as I folded my tent and put the tent pegs neatly in a row for counting – I thought everyone did this? So a solo walk to the coast via Hill of Morphie where I received a phone call informing me that my mum had had a fall and was in hospital and to make matters worse my sister was out of the country on holiday. A few frantic calls later and my old friend Chris Hall reported that he had visited and that apart from some bruising she was fine. A big thankyou to Chris. So onward to the coast and the descent to the beach down the cliff path at St Cyrus. Dipped my feet in the sea and shared the taking of photos with Richard and Mark. Cried and then cried again – I’d only bloody well done it!

The climb back up the cliff was hard work but followed by an easy walk back up the road to the bus stop. Arriving in the centre of Montrose was an assault on the senses after 2 weeks of crossing Scotland. I signed out at the Park Hotel, received my certificate and my goodie bag which contained a note from Emma Warbrick congratulating me on my first crossing – I cried again.

Will I return like so many others for another crossing? – you can put your mortgage on it – I’ll be back!